Of every Moroccan city you could choose for a holiday with kids, Essaouira is probably the most straightforward. Not because it's been designed for families (it really hasn't), but because by its very nature it already has most of what a family needs to breathe for a week.
What we mean: a medina with no cars at all, so none of the traffic stress. A long flat beach a ten-minute walk from anything. A climate that doesn't punish you (never 40°C, never 5°C). A relaxed atmosphere where kids aren't seen as a nuisance in cafés and restaurants — quite the opposite. And a town small enough to feel oriented within two days, without GPS, without a map.
Why Essaouira works with kids
Three concrete reasons. The first, the most practical: the medina is closed to cars. Zero. No scooters either, most of the time (a few deliveries here and there, rare). It's one of the only Moroccan cities you can cross on foot with a four-year-old walking on their own, without holding hands every thirty seconds. For parents who know the stress of the Marrakech or Fez medinas with small children, the contrast is immediate.
The second reason: the beach. Wide, flat, accessible. At low tide it reveals hundreds of metres of soft sand where kids can run, build castles, collect shells, ride a donkey or a dromedary (yes, those are around, more on that below). No dangerous rocks, little current in the morning. Swimming requires supervision like anywhere, but the water stays usable.
Third reason: Moroccans adore children, and it shows. In restaurants, in shops, in cafés, your child will be greeted, sometimes pinched on the cheek (yes, still a thing), often handed a madeleine or an orange. It's a culture where children exist, are visible, and where adults speak to them, not around them.
The medina with kids
The Essaouira medina is much easier to navigate than Marrakech's or Fez's. Smaller, brighter (white walls and blue accents), more linear (a legacy of the 18th-century Portuguese layout). You barely get lost. Main lanes are wide enough for two strollers side by side. Souks are concentrated on a few clearly marked streets, the rest of the medina is residential and quiet.
A few traps anyway. The cobblestones are uneven — bring a sturdy stroller with large wheels, or a baby carrier for under-twos. Some alleys have surprise steps. And there are a lot of staircases inside traditional houses, worth noting if you stay in the medina.
With older kids (from six or seven), exploring the medina becomes a game. Cats are everywhere (Essaouira is a cat city, you'll see dozens per walk), the artisan workshops are open and welcoming, the fishing port fascinates. The blue boats, the fishermen mending their nets, the gulls, it's living theatre every morning.
The beach and the wind — managing both
Essaouira's central beach stretches for several kilometres south. It's supervised in July and August on the northern section, near the town. The sand is fine, golden, with a gentle even slope into the water. A near-perfect beach for small children, as long as you understand how it behaves through the day.
The wind changes everything. Mornings, until 11 am or noon, are calm. That's the window for swimming, beach naps, sandcastles. From around 2 pm in summer the wind settles in at 30–40 km/h. The beach becomes uncomfortable to sit on (the sand flies sideways and stings), but stays beautiful for walking, running, or flying a kite. Children often love the electric atmosphere more than adults do.
The practical solution for families with little ones: beach in the morning, lunch in town, nap indoors (at the house or hotel) between 2 and 4 pm, head out again in the late afternoon. That's also the local rhythm. Nobody in Essaouira sits on the beach at 3 pm in July.
Activities that genuinely work
A few options we've tested that work well at different ages:
Donkey or dromedary rides on the beach — available daily, mostly in the late afternoon from 4 pm. Around 100–150 MAD for a 20–30 minute ride. The animals are generally well-kept, but ask to see them first and agree on the duration upfront. A classic; children never tire of it.
Surf or bodyboard lessons — several schools in Essaouira and Sidi Kaouki offer lessons for kids from age 6. Around 200–300 MAD for a one-hour group class. Ocean Vagabond and Explora are the established names. At Sidi Kaouki, several smaller, cheaper schools.
Private hammam as a family — there are private hammams (different from traditional shared ones) you can book for a family or small group. A genuinely good experience from age 7 or 8 (younger ones often find the heat tiring). Around 250–400 MAD per adult with the scrub, usually free for under-12s.
Visiting the fishing boats — free, do it early around 9 or 10 am when the fishermen are around. Many will let you step onto their boat for a few minutes (a small tip is appreciated). One of the simplest and most memorable things to do.
Thuya marquetry workshop visit — some artisans in the medina will let kids watch them work and occasionally try a bit themselves. Ask politely, the welcome is often generous.
Where to stay: villa, riad, hotel?
For a family, the choice usually comes down to two options: a riad in the medina, or a villa outside town. Each has its logic.
A riad in the medina means everything on foot and full immersion in the atmosphere. Kids love the inner courtyards, the rooftop terraces, the staircases that never end. But: bedrooms can be small, neighbour noise reaches you, and many riads aren't stroller-friendly (narrow entrances, steps from the door). With two walking-age kids, it's doable and even charming. With a newborn and a 3-year-old, it's sport. Medina House offers this format in a more modern version, with three bedrooms, a rooftop terrace and ocean views.
A villa outside town, by contrast, needs a car but offers the opposite: private pool, garden, multiple bathrooms, room to run, kitchen to prepare meals on your kids' schedule. Particularly suited to extended families (cousins, grandparents) or several families travelling together. Thuya House sits in that mode: five bedrooms, heated pool, padel court for teenagers, up to ten guests, 18 minutes from town.
The right choice depends on the children's ages and the trip length. For three nights or fewer, the riad wins: everything on foot, full immersion. For five nights or more with young children, the villa becomes a comfort that's hard to refuse.
Health and logistics, briefly
A few things that come up often:
Tap water isn't recommended for drinking — bottled water for drinking and tooth-brushing the first few days. Pharmacies are plentiful and well-stocked, several open evenings and Sundays on rotation. The Essaouira medical centre is fine for routine emergencies; Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdellah hospital handles more serious cases. For complex care, Marrakech or Casablanca remain the references.
No specific vaccinations required for Morocco. Bring a basic travel kit: paracetamol, antiseptic, anti-diarrheal, high-protection sunscreen (the wind makes you forget you're burning), light mosquito repellent (rare but possible in summer).
Nappies and infant formula are easily found in the central supermarkets (Marjane Holding, Carrefour Market). Common European brands are available, at slightly higher prices than back home.
When to come as a family
April, May, early June, September, and early October. That's also what we recommend for almost everyone, but with kids it's nearly mandatory: mild temperatures, manageable wind, water still acceptable, town not saturated. Summer (July-August) remains possible but requires planning around wind and crowds. Winter is doable with older kids who enjoy walking the empty alleys, less practical with babies who don't tolerate the relative cold (10–12°C at night).
See our seasonal guide for the month-by-month detail.
One last thing, not practical but real: Essaouira slows you down. The first hours on the ground, kids can be disoriented by the lack of structured entertainment. It isn't a theme park, it isn't a town built for family tourism. But within two or three days, they adapt. And often, they get as attached to the place as the parents do.